There are several things that need to be considered before going out and buying the materials.
How high, how long, what the wife would like, what the neighbors think, how windy it is. to name a few.
Maybe the neighbors will go half in the cost of and help build it.
Before we start we need to thing about the safety of all who are working on the fence.
They need eye and ear protection and gloves to guard their hand. Tidy up the site regularly so people aren't tripping over bit of wood and tools laying on the ground.
Before we start we need to thing about the safety of all who are working on the fence.
They need eye and ear protection and gloves to guard their hand. Tidy up the site regularly so people aren't tripping over bit of wood and tools laying on the ground.
Having decided to build a 4 foot high fence measure how long it is going to be.
We will use six foot 4x4 posts 2x4 rails and 2x6 paling all are rough sawn and will be held together with galvanized nails. The posts will be cemented into the ground.
Tools that will be needed are a pencil, string line, hand and power say hammer, nail gun, post hole borer, spade, level
Firstly bore holes with the post hole borer for the end posts and cement them in the ground. The holes need to be two feet deep.
you Can either mix your own concrete from ballast and cement or use premixed material which is some times easier and cleaner in that there are only bags left over when the job is finished.
Have lunch while these posts concrete hardens.
Tie the string line to one posts at the top and near the ground. Mark out the location of the middle posts usually six foot apart is good.
Bore all the holes to two foot deep using a hand or power boring tool. place all the posts into the holes ans secure them with props to keep the vertical and in line with the string lines.
Concrete all the posts in place and call it a day so the concrete can harden over night.
To make lawn mowing near the fence easier many people make a mowing strip below along the fence line extending about 4" out from the fence. This is Optional
There are two ways if securing the rails, either between the posts or onto the side of the posts in their long lengths.the second way is stronger.
Measure eight inches down from the top of the posts and cut the rails to the appropriate length and check that the rails are level.
Nail them to the posts with four inch nails.
Measure down about 2'6 and mark the posts
for the lower rail position. Cut and fix the lower rail to the post.
We have done quite a lot of work so far so we need to stand back and look at our work so far and have a second check that the rails are level and look secure.
Fixing the palings is very satisfying as we can now see there is an end to the job.
Nail the first paling at one end and check it clear of the ground and vertical checking with the level.
The fence paling will rot if in contact with the ground.
Place the next one beside the previous paling either with or without a small spacer and nail in place.
The spacer is used to give and even gap between all the paling, about 16th of an inch is enough because the wood is usually wet when we install it and the gap gets bigger as it dries.
Carry on installing the palings and keep checking they are vertical as they tend to drift off a bit if you don't check.
The top of the palings may now be a bit uneven due to the board being kept clear of the ground and will need to be trimmed.
Run the string line again to get the best line for trimming the top edge and with a long board draw a line where you need to cut the paling.
The portable circular saw is the best tool for doing this.
I like to finish off by fitting a capping rail over the top of the paling which is a dressed molding that has a groove in it that fits over the paling. This also keeps the rain out of the paling.
To make lawn mowing near the fence easier many people make a mowing strip below along the fence line extending about 4" out from the fence. This is Optional
There are two ways if securing the rails, either between the posts or onto the side of the posts in their long lengths.the second way is stronger.
Measure eight inches down from the top of the posts and cut the rails to the appropriate length and check that the rails are level.
Nail them to the posts with four inch nails.
Measure down about 2'6 and mark the posts
for the lower rail position. Cut and fix the lower rail to the post.
We have done quite a lot of work so far so we need to stand back and look at our work so far and have a second check that the rails are level and look secure.
Fixing the palings is very satisfying as we can now see there is an end to the job.
Nail the first paling at one end and check it clear of the ground and vertical checking with the level.
The fence paling will rot if in contact with the ground.
Place the next one beside the previous paling either with or without a small spacer and nail in place.
The spacer is used to give and even gap between all the paling, about 16th of an inch is enough because the wood is usually wet when we install it and the gap gets bigger as it dries.
Carry on installing the palings and keep checking they are vertical as they tend to drift off a bit if you don't check.
The top of the palings may now be a bit uneven due to the board being kept clear of the ground and will need to be trimmed.
Run the string line again to get the best line for trimming the top edge and with a long board draw a line where you need to cut the paling.
The portable circular saw is the best tool for doing this.
I like to finish off by fitting a capping rail over the top of the paling which is a dressed molding that has a groove in it that fits over the paling. This also keeps the rain out of the paling.
The fence above replace this hedge which had been tended to over about fifty years it took a lot of work and was starting to die in several places
If you want more ideas take a look on you tube and look under fence building tricks there are many great ideas there too.
For your tools see if you can find any at http://handpowertool.com
